Ultimate Guide to Fence Repair Near Me

Replacing a split fence post seems like a challenging job but it isn’t as complicated as it would appear. This requires just elbow grease and a couple of basic devices that you already still have in the shed or workshop. Where do you go? First you have to assess the damage and the project. Did the post rot and either crack or was sheered off because of any bad heat. Is there even a stub intact, or is it cut off at ground level or concrete? Don’t be afraid, the project is moderately challenging and it should only take about 1 to 2 hours to complete and your fence will be good as new. Checkout Fence repair near me.

Difficulty: Mild

Time Required: Around 1 to 2 Hours

Required Instruments

— Showboy

— Cheers Bar

— Niveau

— 1 Replacement post-Typically 4 “x 4” x 8 “Cedar or Lumber treated

— 1-80 pound Quickrete Concrete Mix Bag

— 3 “Wood Screws (roughly 12 Screws)

Additional Tools

— Auger or Clam Shell Post Digger Hole

— Gravel Bucket

— Circular saw or side saw

Typically, most fence posts are placed in the ground using concrete, but others are placed using packed dirt in the fence post hole.

If you do not see concrete at ground level, take an ordinary shovel and dig down a few inches near the broken post location and see if you hit concrete. Most fence posts are placed in concrete and mostly a standard post hole is about eight (8) “t.

When it comes to removing an established post there are different schools of thought. Some people prefer the technique of smashing and grabbing which is simply using a hammer and chisel or pry bar to break the concrete into small pieces and pull them one by one from the existing hole. The method does work but is a lot of work and it can take one (1) to two ( 2 ) hours of work to remove the concrete from the pit. It’s good if you have a single post to substitute, but the task involved is rather boring and tiring and there are easier options to do it.

The approach that I use is to take a long, thin bladed shovel to dig out the soil just to the side of the pavement that reveals the concrete block face. Just remember to pile the dirt near the hole as once the post and concrete block is removed from the ground the dirt you remove will be used to re-pack the hole.

Dig between six (6) “to eight (8”) inches from the bottom of the asphalt, then twenty-four (24) “inches away. This allows a pocket as wide as the concrete block. If a fragment or stub from the original pillar is still in position, using the new pocket room that you just made, you can use it to start moving the concrete block back and forth. You should be able to use the shovel or pry bar as a handle once it is free, to raise the concrete block out of the pit. Be vigilant to raise with your legs, as the concrete block will weigh up to eighty (80) pounds. If the current pole or post stub is no longer attached to the wall, you should be able to use a pry bar or even a hammer to move back and forth the new concrete block in a similar way, loosening it from its initial location. Once the block is free, use the same method as above, but please be careful when separating the concrete using proper lifting techniques. In this project a visit to doctors is not prescribed.

Using the soil collected from the trench after the block is lifted to fill up the six (6) “to eight (8”) inches that you initially dug out. Make sure to tightly stack the soil because it will have the lateral protection as it is in place for the new post. In addition to attaching the existing fence structure, the concrete you use when setting the new post will provide plenty of support but the better you pack the dirt the better the result. You will have a regular hole about twenty-four (24) “inches deep, and about eight (8”) to twelve (12) “inches long.